Nepal Opens 97 Himalayan Peaks for Free Climbing (2025–2027): What’s Actually Free, Which Peaks, and How to Plan
Nepal Opens 97 Himalayan Peaks for Free Climbing
Nepal has taken a bold step to shift mountaineering traffic away from Everest. This highlights its lesser-known western ranges. Nepal offers 97 peaks royalty-free for a period of two years, from 2025 to 2027.
With this new initiative, the government aims to alleviate congestion on Everest. At the same time, it drives tourism into the remote Karnali and Sudurpashchim region. These regions have long remained in the shadows of the Khumbu and Annapurna.
This is a rare chance to explore little-known mountains at a fraction of the usual cost. It’s a chance for local communities to benefit directly from tourism. They can make a living through guiding, portering, food, and lodging services.
The initiative unlocks new opportunities for various climbs. You can go for first ascents. Or alpine-style objectives, and training climbs for those 8,000ers. And the best part about the plan is the affordability of these “Free Climbs.”
What Does “Free Climbing” Mean Here?
The headline “Free Climbing” is exciting. However, it doesn't mean trekking with zero cost. What Nepal has waived is the royalty fee for over ninety peaks in the western parts. These climbing royalty fees can go over thousands of dollars per expedition.
Climbers will still need to pay for other things. Trekkers need to secure permit documents, administrative fees, and essentials. Here’s a list of things that you may need to pay for:
Guides & Porters
Insurance for staff and climbers
Liaison Officer (LO) fees
Environmental bond/deposit
Logistics
Rescue & evacuation planning/Insurance
Therefore, the new plan's journey isn’t completely free. Even with the waived climbing royalty fee, it is much cheaper than climbing in Nepal normally is. So, it’s best to contact official channels to avoid any confusion.
Where Are the 97 Peaks?
The new royalty-free climbing opportunities are concentrated in Nepal’s far west. There are seventy-seven peaks in the Karnali Province. Likewise, twenty peaks in the Sudurpashchim Province.
Together, they cover an elevation range from 5,870 m to 7,132 m. So, yes, they are ideal for both high-altitude trekkers transitioning into alpinism. Similarly, serious climbers can venture into the 7,000-meter training climbs.
Notable Peaks
Api Himal (7,132 m)
The highest in the region. Api Himal is rarely climbed despite its prominence.
Saipal Himal (7,030 m)
A stunning, isolated giant often compared to the Dolpo and Kanchenjunga.
Api West (7,076 m)
Another major objective that could gain importance.
Many of these peaks are unclimbed or see extremely few expeditions each decade. They remain unique for those seeking pioneering routes. These routes in Karnali and Sudurpashchim offer true wilderness mountaineering.
Policy Timeline & Live Updates
Nepal’s decision to waive royalty fees is part of a larger mountaineering policy shift. It is aimed at balancing tourism, safety, and sustainability.
Decision Date:
The Ministry of Culture, Tourism, and Civil Aviation revealed the free-peak on July 17, 2025. The initiative will last for two years, so it ends on July 17, 2027. Climbers get a limited window to explore these mountains without paying the royalty.
Connected Policy Changes:
Everest Royalty Fee Increase:
Beginning September 1, 2025, the cost of an Everest climbing permit rises. It goes from $11,000 to $15,000.
Proposed Everest Prerequisite Rule:
Nepal is also debating a new law for climbing Everest. Climbers need to summit at least one 7,000-meter peak in Nepal before Everest. If passed, peaks such as Api or Saipal gain new significance as training grounds.
Who Benefits (and Who Doesn’t)?
The 97 royalty-free peaks are not just a climber’s opportunity. It is a socio-economic strategy to open up Nepal’s far-western Himalayas. Moreover, historically, it has been overshadowed by the Everest and Annapurna regions.
Local Benefits:
Communities in Karnali and Sudurpashchim stand to gain the most. In recent years, the far west saw only 21 expeditions with 68 climbers in total. It is a fraction compared to Everest.
With this new policy, expect jobs for the locals. They can work in guiding, portering, transport, lodges, and food supply chains. This helps rebalance tourism income across the country.
Climbers Who Benefit:
Ambitious trekkers ready to move into alpine mountaineering.
Teams training for 8,000-meter expeditions. More so, if the Everest 7,000 m prerequisite becomes law.
Route pioneers and adventure seekers looking for rarely attempted Himalayan summits
Who Doesn’t Benefit (as much):
Casual trekkers may find these peaks too remote and challenging.
Climbers seeking easy logistics and abundant tea houses.
Costs—What You Still Pay in the “Free Climbs” in Nepal
Yes, the government waived the royalty fee. However, climbing a Himalayan peak is never free of cost. Here’s what you still need to pay:
Permits & Administration:
Permit application fee is still mandatory even without the royalty fee
Liaison Officer (LO) fee. LOs are mandatory government-appointed officers for expeditions above a certain elevation.
Environmental Bond/Deposit is a refundable deposit. The bond is returned only if climbers prove they’ve cleaned up camps and carried waste back.
Logistics & On-Ground Costs:
Guides and Porters
Essential for navigation, route setup, and carrying loads. Guides and porters in the far west’s long approaches become an essential part of the journey.
Insurance
It is mandatory for both foreign climbers and Nepali staff. It is important for covering accidents, evacuations, and medical care.
Transport
Costs are higher than in central Nepal. Most teams fly from Kathmandu to Nepalgunj or Surkhet. Later, it continues by jeep and foot for several days to reach the base camp.
Food & Fuel
You will need to pay for expedition rations, kitchen tents, and stoves. Fuel is used for cooking and melting snow.
Communications
Satellite phones, radios, and solar charging kits are essential for the journey. It is due to the lack of infrastructure.
Rescue & Evacuation
Helicopter support is more expensive and less reliable in remote western Nepal. Teams must be prepared with self-sufficient safety plans.
Key Takeaway of Costs:
Even with the permit royalty waived, most expeditions will still come at a cost. A climber can spend around $9,000 - $16,000 per head. It all depends on team size, style, and logistics. For remote peaks, costs may actually exceed climbs in central Nepal.
Access & Logistics: How to Get There
Climbing in Nepal’s far-western Himalayas is a true adventure. Getting to the location is often more demanding than the climb itself. A main reason for this is that Karnali and Sudurpashchim remain underdeveloped.
So, how do we get to the Karnali and Sudurpashchim areas? Most expeditions begin with a flight from Kathmandu to Nepalgunj or Surkhet. From there, climbers continue by small aircraft to Jumla. Or you can take a rugged jeep route to Darchula.
You should prepare for a long journey to the Karnali and Sudurpashchim region. It is then followed by several days of trekking to reach the base camps. Jeep tracks vary in condition, and during monsoon or winter, they can be washed out. As such, foot approaches are sometimes the only option.
Permits Beyond Climbing:
True, the royalty fees are waived. You will still need permits for restricted areas, national parks, or conservation zones.
To trek some places, you will need to pay for the API-Nampa Conservation Area or Rara National Park. It’s imperative to confirm with the Department of Tourism before setting off.
Best Seasons to Climb:
Autumn (September–November):
It is the most reliable season, and often considered the best. It offers crisp skies, stable weather, and good snow conditions. Nepal offers some of the best places to trek in the Autumn.
Spring (April–May):
Spring is considered the second-best season to trek in Nepal. The season is excellent for snow climbs. It is amazing for acclimatization before 8,000 m peaks.
Winter (December–February):
Trekking and climbing in winter is possible but extremely challenging. The climate is bitterly cold with deep snow. Moreover, isolation makes this suitable only for advanced mountaineers.
Monsoon (June–August):
Summer and Monsoon trekking is generally not recommended due to heavy rain. Moreover, most areas are prone to landslides. As for views, clouds cover the sky, blocking the range.
Safety, Ethics & Environmental Notes
Climbing in the far-western Himalayas comes with serious risks and responsibilities. These peaks are remote, with minimal infrastructure and limited rescue options. As such, planning the trip carefully is crucial.
Long approaches mean slower rescues, and many routes remain untested. Landslides, avalanches, and crevasse zones are real dangers. Reliable communications equipment like sat phones, radios, and GPS trackers is non-negotiable.
Climbers should strongly consider hiring certified IFMGA or NNMGA guides. They know the terrain well, giving you an extra layer of safety. This aligns with Nepal’s broader policy direction. The directive for future Everest aspirants must first summit a 7,000 m peak in Nepal.
Leave No Trace & Local Protocols
Pack out all trash, including food waste and climbing gear.
Use clean-fuel stoves to avoid deforestation.
Respect liaison officer protocols. Their role is not just bureaucratic but also environmental.
Support local communities by hiring locally, buying supplies nearby, and respecting cultural sites.
Top 10 Peaks to Watch
Here are 10 standout peaks from the newly opened 97 free climb initiative. Every mountaineer should have these peaks on their radar:
Api Himal (7,132 m):
Region: Sudurpashchim
Notes:
The highest peak in western Nepal
It’s rarely climbed despite its prominence
Approach:
Darchula route
6–7 days trek to base camp
Ideal Season: Autumn
Saipal Himal (7,030 m):
Region: Sudurpashchim
Notes:
Striking isolated massif
It holds very few successful ascents recorded
Approach:
Nepalgunj
Simikot
Long Trekking Route
Ideal Season: Spring and Autumn
Api West (7,076 m):
Region: Sudurpashchim
Notes:
A training candidate for Everest aspirants
Useful for the proposed 7,000 m rule
Approach:
Darchula route
Walk across remote valleys and rugged terrain
6–7 days trek to base camp
Bobaye (6,808 m):
Region: Sudurpashchim
Notes:
Technical, unclimbed lines
A strong alpine appeal
Approach:
Jeep ride to the trailhead
Trek from Darchula
Ideal Season: Autumn
Jethi Bahurani (6,850 m)
Region: Karnali
Notes:
Very rarely attempted
Potential for first-ascent routes
Approach:
Surkhet
Jumla
Trek to base
Ideal Season: Spring
Rishi Himal (6,670 m):
Region: Karnali
Notes:
Known locally for spiritual significance
It holds challenging access
Approach:
Jumla side trek
Ideal Season: Autumn
Chandi Himal (6,400 m):
Region: Karnali
Notes:
Lesser-known objective
Attractive for small alpine teams.
Approach:
Jeep ride to the trailhead
Trekking approach
Ideal Season: Spring
Nampa II (6,755 m):
Region: Sudurpashchim
Notes:
Near the Api range
Overlooked by most climbers and offers solitude
Approach:
Darchula trail
Ideal Season: Autumn
Kanti Himal (6,859 m):
Region: Karnali
Note:
Remote and rugged
offering both moderate and technical climbing
Approach:
Surkhet/Jumla access
Ideal Season: Spring
These peaks combine remote adventure, first-ascent potential, and training value. With the new royalty-free policy, it's attractive than ever for serious mountaineers.
How to Apply The 97 free-fee Peaks (Step-by-Step)
Nepal’s newly opened 97 free-fee peaks require some paperwork and planning. Here’s a practical path to follow:
Step 1: Confirm Eligibility
Check that your objective is officially listed.
There are 97 peaks in Karnali & Sudurpashchim.
Always download or screenshot the latest NTB/Department of Tourism circular.
Remember, policies and lists can shift.
Step 2: Select a Local Operator
Climbers can take a Nepali trekking/climbing agency. They will coordinate permits, liaison officers, and logistics
Clarify what their package includes.
Transport, porters, kitchen, and insurance.
Step 3: Permit Filing & Liaison Officer (LO) Arrangements
Submit your application via the DoT or through your chosen operator.
Expeditions above certain altitudes must host an LO. Their costs and management remain your responsibility.
Step 4: Secure Insurances
Proof of personal insurance and staff insurance is mandatory.
Step 5. Environmental Bond
Deposit the refundable waste bond.
It will be returned once your team proves they removed all their garbage from the mountain.
Step 6. Route Research
Use maps, satellite imagery, and local intel for reconnaissance.
Many of these peaks have few or no prior ascents. So, expect limited route data.
Budgeting Sheet for Trekking in 97 Himalayan Free Peaks
The peak climbing royalty fee is waived for two years. However, Nepal’s far west still demands a solid budget. Here’s what you can expect:
Lean Alpine Pair (self-sufficient)
Transport (flights + jeeps): $1,200–$1,800
Food & fuel: $600–$900
Local porters (light): $500–$800
Insurance: $300–$500
Comms & misc.: $200–$400
Total: $2,800–$4,400
Guided Team (4–6 climbers with full support)
Transport & cargo: $2,000–$3,000 per person
Guides & staff wages: $1,500–$2,500
Kitchen & base camp: $700–$1,200
Insurance (staff + climbers): $400–$600
Food & fuel: $800–$1,200
Comms, LO, permits, bond: $600–$900
Total: $6,000–$9,500
Note: The prices listed in the blog are an estimation. It could vary depending on packages, seasons and other factors.
Why pricier despite “free”?
Remote Nepal has longer supply chains, fewer flights, and thin trekking infrastructure. It raises logistics costs compared to other famed trails.
FAQs on the 97 Free Peaking Climbing Scheme in Nepal
Is climbing really free in Nepal now?
Yes—Nepal has waived government royalty/permit fees for 97 peaks. You will still need to budget for guides, porters, logistics, insurance, and admin.
Which Himalayan peaks are included in the free list?
The 97 peaks are in Karnali and Sudurpashchim provinces. It includes Api (7,132 m), Saipal (7,030 m), and many unclimbed 6,000–7,000 m summits.
How long is the free climbing policy valid?
It’s a two-year trial window from July 17, 2025, subject to renewal.
Do I still need a climbing permit?
Yes. The royalty is waived. But a permit application, liaison officer, and waste bond are still mandatory.
Can I climb without a guide?
Technically, yes, for experienced alpinists. However, the remoteness and lack of infrastructure make local support highly advisable.
Do these peaks count toward Everest eligibility?
If Nepal passes the proposed law on Everest climbing. Then, summiting a 7,000 m peak from this list would help qualify climbers for Everest.
What’s the best season to attempt these peaks?
Most climbs are best in autumn (Sept–Nov) and spring (Apr–May). Winter is possible for elite climbers.
Are the peaks already mapped or equipped?
Most of these peaks are unclimbed or rarely climbed. The peaks have little to no fixed gear. Expect self-sufficiency and exploration.
Can beginners attempt these peaks?
No. These are serious expeditions in remote regions, not trekking peaks. Beginners should first attempt popular 6,000 m peaks like Mera or Island Peak.
