Mera and Island Peak Climbing - 22 Days

Climber is about to Summit Mera Peak

Trip Info

Trip Duration

22 Days

Max Altitude

6476 m

Difficulty

difficult

Start From

Kathmandu

Trip Ends At

Kathmandu

Mera and Island Peak Climbing Overview

Mera Peak and Island Peak Climb via Amphi Laptsa Pass is one of the most thrilling adventures in Nepal that involves two well-known summits over 6000 meters and one challenging high pass named Amphu Laptsa Pass. This incredible high-altitude journey is jam-packed with mountains and wilderness, valleys, forests, and grasslands giving you a true mountaineering adventure.

Though Mera and Island Peak seem close to each other on a map, it is divided by a chain of mountains separating the Khumbu Valley and Hinku. The journey also takes you through the most remote and beautiful region of Nepal.

The fascinating Mera Peak is known as the “highest trekking peak in Nepal”. Climbing Mera Peak does not require any prior climbing experience and is a less technically challenging peak climb. Mera Peak provides one of the most breathtaking panoramic views of five 8,000-meter summits, including the peaks of Cho-Oyu, Ama Dablam, and Kangtega to the west, Chamlang, Kanchanjunga, Makalu, and Baruntse to the east, Lhotse in the south face and the Nuptse ridge and Everest in the north. 

Island Peak is also known as Imja Tse and offers an amazing climbing experience. The Island Peak Climb is somewhat more difficult than Mera Peak climbing requiring some mountaineering skills and proper gear such as ladders, and rope to climb. The top of the Island peak offers a breathtaking 360-degree panorama of many of the highest mountains in the world such as Makalu (8475m) in the east, Baruntse, and Ama Dablam in the south, and Nuptse (7,879m), Lhotse (8,501m), Lhotse Middle Peak (8,410m), and Lhotse Shar (8,383m) to the north.

You will surely feel like being in paradise as the trail from here takes you through the enchanting Hinku Valley toward the Imja Valley via one of the highest Himalayan Passes, Amphu Laptsa Pass at 5780 meters which offers a wonderful trekking experience and stunning views of Everest, Lhotse, Island, and other significant peaks. 

Himalayan Trekkers have beautifully designed this crucial itinerary with proper rest days for unlocking the unrefined beauty of these mountainous regions and also provide you with practice sessions for your successful venture. 

Mera and Island Peak Climbing Highlights 

  • Climb two splendid peaks of Nepal Himalayas - Island and Mera
  • Embrace the thrilling trip to and from Lukla
  • Explore Namche Bazaar of the Everest Region
  • Splendid views of Mount Everest (8848 m), Lhotse (8,500 m), Makalu (8,478 m), Nuptse (7,880 m), Ama Dablam (6,812 m), Baruntse (7,129 m)
  • Crossing the thrilling Amphu Lapcha Pass (5,780 m)
  • Visit the holy lake at almost 5000 meters, Seto Pokhari
  • Trekking through the stunning and secluded Hinku Valley
  • Peek into the traditions, way of life, and hospitality of the well-known "Sherpa" people
  • Experience the rhododendron, magnolia, birch, and pine forests' luxuriant greenery

How Difficult is Mera and Island Peak Climb?

Mera Peak is the tallest trekking peak in Nepal but does not require specialized mountaineering abilities. But, a climber must be physically fit and mentally prepared to handle challenging circumstances at a high altitude in order to make it to the top.

Island Peak, on the other hand, calls for previous knowledge of mountaineering. Gear such as mountaineering boots, crampons, abseiling, glacier hiking, crossing ladders, ice axes, and climbing fixed ropes are essential to make the summit of Island Peak. Island Peak Climbing is also a fantastic opportunity for ice and rock climbing.

As this journey is a combination of both climbs, climbers need to have knowledge regarding mountaineering skills along with a lot of effort and determination. In addition, the challenging Amphu Laptsa Pass at 5780 meters can also make the journey a little bit strenuous. 

Not only the distance and terrains but the weather conditions of the peaks also play a pivotal role in the difficulty. Though the mountain weather is ever-changing and unpredictable, learning about the right time to do the climb is very essential. 

Also, Altitude Mountain Sickness (AMS) can also be a threat during this Mera Peak and Island Peak Climbing journey as these journey takes you above 6000 meters altitude. But, we can take precautions beforehand by taking required acclimatization, hydrating, maintaining a balanced diet, getting enough sleep, etc. You can also carry Diamox or other prescribed AMS meditations. In case you notice any symptoms of this illness, you are requested to inform your guide as soon as possible as they are experienced with these subjects. 

What is the best time to do Mera and Island Peak Climb?

When attempting to climb a peak, climbers should be aware of the weather and conditions of the route and the peaks. When it is possible to the Mera and Island Peak Climbing any time of the year with proper preparations, spring and autumn are considered the shoulder seasons. 

Spring in Nepal starts in March and lasts till May and the trekking route offers breathtaking views of mountains, dense forests, vibrant meadows, and blooming rhododendrons during this season. The weather is warm and pleasant, with a clear view of the Himalayas and a beautiful blue sky but the nights could be cold and temperatures could get below the freezing point when you are above 4000 meters. 

Autumn is by far the most popular and best season for any climbing journey including Mera and Island Peak climbs because it is drier than other seasons, the weather is consistent, the sky is completely clear and the most breathtaking views are made possible. 

The summer monsoon is the least favorable time to climb because of the intense rainfall, thunderstorms, and fog. The trail also becomes slick and muddy and the views are also obscured by the daylong infiltration of fog and mist. In addition, avalanches and landslides can occasionally make the trip dangerous. But, with proper guidance, gear, an experienced guide, and climbers’ patience and endurance, the climb can be made possible. You can marvel at the beauty of the region's rivers, lakes, waterfalls, and streams during this time of the year. 

Winter is also not advised for Mera Peak and Island Peak Climbing and crossing Amphu Laptsa Pass because firstly, the wintertime temperature drops dramatically. Days grow shorter and it gets darker earlier. The ice and snow conditions and the temporary shutdown of the lodges and teahouses might increase the challenge. But again, if you want more thrill and challenges, you can attempt climbing this season too with proper preparation. 

Permits to do Mera and Island Peak Climb via Amphu Laptsa Pass

Climbers are required to obtain the following permits to climb Mera Peak and Island Peak

1. NMA (Nepal Mountaineering Association) Permit

2. Makalu Barun National Park Entry Permit

3. Sagarmatha National Park Entry Permit

4. Local Area Permit (Khumbu Rural Municipality Entrance permit)

All these permits are included in the package cost. 

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Itinerary Details

Day 1: Arrival in Kathmandu
30 Min Drive to Hotel
Max Altitude: 1350 M

Upon your arrival at the Tribhuvan International Airport, a representative from the Himalayan Trekkers will welcome you and transfer you to the hotel. After your check-in formalities, you can take a brief rest before our short discussion session regarding the Mera and Island Peaks Climbing journey. In the evening, we will take a stroll around the Thamel Bazaar where you can get a glimpse of the lifestyle here. 

Accommodation: Standard Hotel in KTM
Day 2: Trek Preparation and Briefings About Peak Climb
Full Day in Kathmandu
Max Altitude: 1350 M

After breakfast, we will go for the Kathmandu tour. We start from the renowned Boudhanath Stupa. It is one of the seven UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Kathmandu valley that houses the relics of Lord Buddha. The dome-shaped semicircle stupa with the golden pinnacle and giant Buddha eyes in every direction sits on a giant Mandala. Boudhanath represents Tibetan Buddhism; even that particular area is called “the little Tibet”. This biggest stupa in the county is flocked by thousands of local and international visitors including pilgrims. 

Then we will visit Pashupatinath Temple which is one of the four most revered Hindu sites in the world. The temple complex sits on the bank of the holy Bagmati River and the main temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva. The main temple is restricted to non-Hindus but there are more than a hundred other temples and monuments there to explore. You can also witness the open-air cremation ceremony, interact with the colored Jogi babas, and take pictures of the mischievous monkeys there. 

Following the tour, there will be a briefing on the trip, an introduction to the climbing guide, and a last check of the climbing gear for the trek to ensure that everyone is ready for the thrilling journey that lies ahead. 

Meals: Breakfast
Accommodation: Standard Hotel in KTM
Day 3: Fly to Lukla & Trek to Chhuthang
35 Minutes Flight & 4/5 Hours Walk
Max Altitude: 3020 M

The flight to Lukla (2860m) is undoubtedly one of the best flying destinations in the Himalayas. If the skies are not that cloudy,  you will be watching the first shimmering sight of Everest and even Mera Peak and Island Peak which are something to cherish and will raise your spirits high. 

After you land in Lukla, our staff will meet and greet you, and soon we will start the journey towards the night stop, Chhuthang passing through small Sherpa villages, dense Silver fir forest, birch pastures, rhododendron and pine forests, and wood yards. Once we reach our destination, we will rest, acclimate, and explore the local communities over the remainder of the day.

Meals: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Accommodation: Tea House
Day 4: Trek to Thuli Kharka via Zatrawala Pass
5/6 Hours Walk
Max Altitude: 3900 M

Today's trek involves a challenging ascent up the Kalo Himal Ridge in the Nau Lekh range. After leaving Chhutang, we keep moving forward till we reach Zatrwa La pass (4610m), where we are greeted in the customary Buddhist manner with prayer flags. After crossing our first pass, the views across the Dudh Kosi towards Kongdi Ri, Karyolang Peak, Number Himal, and Lumding Himal are rather stunning on a clear day. In addition, we catch the first look at the surroundings across the undulating Hinku River Valley slopes. From here, we will walk for an hour to reach today’s destination, Thuli Kharla. 

Meals: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Accommodation: Tea House
Day 5: Trek to Kothe
6/7 Hours Walk
Max Altitude: 3600 M

We leave Thuli Kharka and follow the trail leading us to the Hinku valley of the Khumbu region. The regular uphills and downhills through the midst of the green and lush forest of Rhododendrons, Pines, and Oaks take us into the Hinku Valley. The first glimpse of our ultimate destination, Mera Peak as soon as we enter Hinku Valley. After a short descent to the Hinku River bed, we climb for a bit to reach Kothe.

Meals: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Accommodation: Tea House
Day 6: Trek to Thagnag
4/5 Hours Walk
Max Altitude: 4360 M

Today is one of the nicest trekking days. The journey to Thagnag at 4,360 m is one that you will truly enjoy and savor the views of the surroundings. The surreal beauty of the mountains in all directions as you move further on the trail will keep your spirits high. Our trek goes along the ridge of Hinku and we can enjoy superb views of Kyashar (6,769m), Kusum Karguru (6,367m), and Mera. We will pass through Gondishung, where we will visit an ancient monastery. As we get to Thagnag, we enjoy the beauty of the surroundings and retire for a relaxing sleep at night as we will be setting up here for providing a gorgeous experience.

Meals: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Accommodation: Tea House
Day 7: Trek to Khare
5/6 Hrs Walk
Max Altitude: 5100 M

The trail from Tangnag to Khare is blessed with the ravishing beauty of nature all around. The path cuts through the valley floor and the entirety of the majestic Black Mera Peak is heart-winning. 

Moreover, the whole trail is full of beautiful glaciers, and lakes, and certainly, it justifies itself as one of the most beautiful Himalayan Valleys. Once we arrive in Khare, we will get to relish the view of Mera Peak from every possible direction. 

Meals: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Accommodation: Tea House
Day 8: Acclimatize & Explore Khare
Full Day in Khare
Max Altitude: 5100 M

The whole day today is dedicated to acclimatization to the high altitude and preparing for the further journey. Spend the time sorting all the climbing gears.  We give the rest of the day to you and spend the time admiring the stupendous setting of the region.

However, if another day is required for acclimatization, we will extend our stay for another day. Further, we will spend the day training on a beautiful hill which will further introduce you to one of the fortunate sights of your life which is a glaciated valley situated in the north.

Meals: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Accommodation: Tea House
Day 9: Trek to Mera Base Camp
3/4 Hours Walk
Max Altitude: 5350 M

We are already in the Mera Climb section and our aim for the day is to travel to the Mera Base Camp. We will get through two other exciting points - the Mera La and the Mera Glacier. 
Approach the path at a steady pace and make sure to put every step forward with caution. Always keep the helmets and crampons on as rock falls are quite common in this region.

As you reach the glacier, you can take some pride in yourself as the base camp is close to here. Enjoy the walk across the glacier and admire the unreal sights of the surrounding. These are some scenes that you can never wash out from your mind and heart.

Meals: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Accommodation: Tented Camp
Day 10: Trek to High Camp & Climbing Preparation
3/4 Hours Walk
Max Altitude: 5800 M

The Mera High Camp is just one step short of the summit. Our trail today starts through the path on easy graded snow slopes. Following on in the trail, we will get to an area of huge crevasses which has to be approached with caution. 

As we move up to the high camp, enjoy the Himalayan treasures - Everest, Makalu, Lhotse, and Nuptse.

Meals: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Accommodation: Tented Camp
Day 11: Climb Mera Peak & Descend to Kongme Dingma
8/9 Hours Walk
Max Altitude: 4800 M

The hike to the summit is extremely exciting as well as extremely hectic and strenuous. We aim to leave for the peak by 2 am as it takes up around 6 hours and depends a lot on the weather conditions. 
The main or the central summit sits right above the wide glacier and is flanked by ridges on either side. Snowfields and crevasses make the most of the trail further for the next couple of hours.

Though Mera Peak has a total of 3 summits, we aim to conquer the highest one. The views you get to witness from the summit are bewitching and post-card perfect. Spend some alone time with nature as you are hardly going to get back this moment ever. 

Now, while you start for the descending journey, abseil for a bit before starting on the long descent back to the high camp. It is necessary to give your body and mind a bit of relaxation before resuming the final trail back to Hinku Valley and then to Kongme Dingma. 

Meals: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Accommodation: Tented Camp
Day 12: Trek to Seto Pokhari
4/5 Hours Walk
Max Altitude: 4900 M

The all-new and fresh mountain setting is a treat to the eyes of every traveler who has been here. We start the day out of our camp and walk through the Hinku Valley to reach the base of a stunning mountain called the Chamlang. The trail from here runs along the right flank of the Hinku River till we get to our campsite. You can choose to set up your camp at any place you like by the river.

Meals: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Accommodation: Tented Camp
Day 13: Trek to Amphu Laptsa Base Camp
4/5 Hours walk
Max Altitude: 5500 M

After breakfast at our camp, we start through the remotest parts of the Himalayas. Along the way, you will get some unique and fancied sights on the backside of the Ama Dablam Peak. The trail traverses past glaciated lakes, glaciated moraine, and ice pinnacles to finally converge to a ridge marking the very end of Hinku Valley. 

Besides all the beauty along the trail, once you reach this spot, the sight of the stunning lake enclosed by a mountain ridge is truly amazing. At a distance, you can even see the Amphu Lapcha Glacier. We take the path around the lake to reach the campsite.

Meals: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Accommodation: Tented Camp
Day 14: Trek to Imja Valley/Glacier Camp via Amphu Laptsa Pass
8/9 Hours Walk
Max Altitude: 5300 M

We will start the day very early in the morning. The first half of the walk is mostly on a rocky ridge till we get the first glimpses of the glacier. The thrill and adventure are unmatched as we get to the top of the Amphu Lapcha Pass. 

From here we start descending steeply on the other side of the pass. This descent will take us to the Imja Valley and is quite risky and threatening. A short abseil over snow, rock, ice, and scree with 250 m fixed ropes that will secure continuing steep descent till you get to a point from where you can walk down the slopes.

The campsite is at the end of the Imja Glacier and around 3 hours from here. Though the hectic ride will take a huge toll on your body, the awe-inspiring sights of Island Peak and Imja Valley will cheer you to the core. It is a long day of around 12 hours and probably the most hectic and strenuous of all the days.

Meals: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Accommodation: Tented Camp
Day 15: Trek to Island Peak Base Camp
2 Hours Walk
Max Altitude: 5100 M

We must give our body a bit of recovery time after the long day we had the previous day. Our journey is short today of around 2 hours only to the Island Peak Base Camp. We enjoy the relaxing walk on a gradual ascend till we reach the campsite. The grandeur of the Nuptse Peak wall is a compelling sight of the region.

Meals: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Accommodation: Tented Camp
Day 16: Acclimatization day at Island Peak Base Camp
Full Day
Max Altitude: 5100 M

We dedicate this day to acclimatizing and getting rest. If you think you need more training with your climbing gear you can choose that, else just sit back and relax in the extensive beauty of the Island Peak Base Camp.

Meals: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Accommodation: Tented Camp
Day 17: Climb Island Peak (6,189 m) & Descend to Chhukung
8/10 Hours Walk
Max Altitude: 4730 M

We will start the day at the earliest with the right preparation and patience. We start with the climb of the rock gully to finally emerge out on the right flanks of the gully. Follow the ridgeline to get to the snout of the glacier. The glacier we need to traverse further has numerous crevasses so we need to rope up to the glacier and further we might need some jumaring and climbing. Though the trail seems easy at first, the final 100m on snow and ice slope is beyond tolerance. 

Our guides will help you fix the ropes as the angle of elevation is as steep as 60 degrees and can be extremely life-threatening. It is of utmost importance that you have prior climbing and mountaineering experiences. As you get to the top of the summit (6189 M), sink in the picturesque beauty of the views around you. On your way down, be careful with the abseiling and approach the descent with caution and patience. The long day of 9 hours finally ends as you reach Chhukung for the night. 

Meals: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Accommodation: Tea House
Day 18: Spare Day/Contingency

The day is separated as a contingency day in case we could not make it to the top of the peak due to reasons like bad weather. 

Meals: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Accommodation: Tented Camp
Day 19: Trek to Namche Bazaar
7 Hours Walk
Max Altitude: 3440 M

Leaving Chhukung we start descending to the Dudh Koshi River where we will cross the bridge. Then our walk continues and passes through lush pine trees and numerous prayer flags, and chortens. The backside of Lhotse and Mount Everest accompanies us during today’s walk. After trekking for nearly 7 hours, we reach our destination Namche Bazaar. Upon arrival in the town, we check in at the hotel and rest. In the evening, you can stroll around the Bazaar, visit a nice café or a bakery and enjoy the food that you missed the most during the journey. 

Meals: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Accommodation: Tea House
Day 20: Trek to Lukla
6/7 Hours Walk
Max Altitude: 2800 M

On our last day, we take the final steps back to Lukla. As you walk on the trail crossing the Dudh Koshi River over numerous bridges, keep the memories of the daunting peaks alive in your heart and mind. 

The 6- 7 hour hike to Lukla marks the very end of this outstanding trekking and climbing expedition. Find some time for souvenir shopping if needed and then the trip comes to a closure.

Meals: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Accommodation: Tea House
Day 21: Fly to Kathmandu
35 minutes Flight and Transfer to Hotel
Max Altitude: 1350 M

After breakfast, we board an early morning flight back to Kathmandu. Upon arrival, you will be transferred to the hotel and the remainder of the day is at leisure. You can rest, visit a nice spa, or explore the sites of your interest. You can also make a last stroll around the Thamel market and get some gifts and souvenirs for your friends and families. 
In the evening, we will have a farewell dinner for the accomplishments we have made in the past 3 weeks.

Meals: Breakfast,
Accommodation: Standard Hotel in KTM
Day 22: Departure from Kathmandu
30 Min Drive to Airport

As the journey of climbing Mera Peak and Island Peak came to an end, we will bid farewell to each other today. You will be transferred to the airport for your scheduled flight back to your home country or onward destination. If your departure is late or during the evening time, you can spend the day as per your interest.

Meals: Breakfast

What is included / not included

Include

  • Domestic (Kathmandu – Lukla – Kathmandu) Airfare and taxes as per itinerary
  • All Guest houses, Lodge, and Tented Accommodation during the Trek and Climb
  • All meals (Breakfast, Lunches & Dinner with Tea/Coffee) During the Trek & Climb
  • An Experienced GOVT licensed Trekking/Climbing Guide & required No. of Sherpa Porters
  • All wages, allowances, insurance, medical, and equipment for supporting crew
  • Sagarmatha (Everest) National Park Fees
  • TIMS fees & Local Province (Municipality/Village) Fees
  • Peak Climbing fees (Royalty)
  • Climbing & Camping Equipment as per itinerary/necessary
  • Garbage fees / a comprehensive medical kit
  • All applicable Government and local taxes

Exclude

  • Nepal Entry Visa Fees 
  • International Airfare to/from Kathmandu & Departure Taxes
  • Meals and accommodation in Kathmandu
  • Any activity in Kathmandu
  • Your Travel Insurance
  • Portable Altitudes Chamber (PAC) for your safety measures
  • Personal expenses such as phone calls, laundry, bar bills, battery recharge, extra porters, bottle or boiled water, hot shower, etc.
  • Tipping/ gratitude
  • Rescue and evacuations
  • Personal Trekking/Climbing Equipment
  • Any charges incurred due to the changing itinerary (Early arrival from the trek, late departure, cancellation of the trek in the middle, etc.)
  • Any extra cost arising from bad weather, unfavorable circumstances (road blockage, landslide, flight delay, etc.)
  • Any extra expenses not mentioned in the cost includes

FAQ

Q. 1. What are the elevations of the Mera and Island peaks?

The heights of Mera Peak and Island Peak are 6,461 meters and 6,189 meters above sea level respectively. 

Q. 2. Are Mera Peak and Island Peak technical climbs?

Mera Peak and Island Peak are not considered technical climbing peaks but some portions can be fairly difficult for beginners as you will also be crossing Amphu Laptsa Pass. Hence, proper training & preparation are required before the climb. 

Q. 3. Will I get altitude sickness during the Mera Peak and Island peak climb?

Anyone can be an altitude sickness victim despite age, gender, stamina, or experience when you are above 3000 meters altitude. As Mera and Island Peak are higher than 6000 meters, there is a high chance of AMS but you can prevent them by taking needed acclimatization, moving steadily, keeping yourself hydrated, getting enough sleep, and maintaining a balanced diet. You can also carry AMS medications such as Diamox. 

Q. 4. Do climbers need prior experience for Mera and Island peak climb?

Though prior climbing experience is not mandatory for Mera and Island Peak Climbing, it is better to engage in some physical activities to increase your stamina and it is much better if you have trekking experience in the high Himalayas. 

Q. 5. Do I need travel insurance essential for the Mera and Island peak climb?

Climbers need to purchase travel insurance covering emergency rescue when making the ascent to any of the peaks that including the Mera Peak and Island Peaks. In case of an emergency, your travel insurance will pay for your helicopter rescue or any other medical care.

Q. 6. What is the minimum age requirement for the Mera and Island peak climb?

According to the regulations established by the Government of Nepal, climbers must be 18 years of age or older to be qualified for the climb. So, if you are under the age of 18, you are not permitted to go on this peak-climbing expedition

Accommodation

Accommodation During Mera Peak and Island Peak Climbing

Himalayan Trekkers offers the best available 3* standard category accommodations on a twin/double sharing basis in Kathmandu. However, you have a selection of 3- to 4-star hotels, basic lodges, and even hostels. You can also opt. for the single supplementary at an additional cost. 

When in the Himalayas, your lodgings will be trekking teahouses with basic amenities. The rooms will be provided on twin sharing basis with a bed, mattress, blanket, and pillow as a bare minimum. You might have to share the bathroom and toilets in the higher places. 

And lastly, we provide tented camp accommodations where there is no availability of trekking lodges and teahouses. 

Meals during the climb to Mera Peak and Island Peak

All three meals (breakfast, lunch & dinner) except the lunches and dinners in Kathmandu will be provided by Himalayan Trekkers because Kathmandu has many options for food and drink. 

Your options are more limited after Lukla. The Nepali staple meal, Dal-Bhat-Tarkari (lentils, steamed rice, seasonal vegetables) is the most popular along with Noodles, dumplings, flatbreads, potatoes, fried bread, mushroom soup, butter tea, etc. 

During the climbing journey, you will be served freshly prepared meals by our tent cooks. 

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