Mera and Island Peak Climbing

Mera Peak and Island Peak Climb via Amphi Laptsa Pass is one of the most thrilling adventures in Nepal that involves two well-known summits over 6000 meters and one challenging high pass named Amphu Laptsa Pass. This incredible high-altitude journey is jam-packed with mountains and wilderness, valleys, forests, and grasslands giving you a true mountaineering adventure.

Though Mera and Island Peak seem close to each other on a map, it is divided by a chain of mountains separating the Khumbu Valley and Hinku. The journey also takes you through the most remote and beautiful region of Nepal.

The fascinating Mera Peak is known as the “highest trekking peak in Nepal”. Climbing Mera Peak does not require any prior climbing experience and is a less technically challenging peak climb. Mera Peak provides one of the most breathtaking panoramic views of five 8,000-meter summits, including the peaks of Cho-Oyu, Ama Dablam, and Kangtega to the west, Chamlang, Kanchanjunga, Makalu, and Baruntse to the east, Lhotse in the south face and the Nuptse ridge and Everest in the north. 

Island Peak is also known as Imja Tse and offers an amazing climbing experience. The Island Peak Climb is somewhat more difficult than Mera Peak climbing requiring some mountaineering skills and proper gear such as ladders, and rope to climb. The top of the Island peak offers a breathtaking 360-degree panorama of many of the highest mountains in the world such as Makalu (8475m) in the east, Baruntse, and Ama Dablam in the south, and Nuptse (7,879m), Lhotse (8,501m), Lhotse Middle Peak (8,410m), and Lhotse Shar (8,383m) to the north.

You will surely feel like being in paradise as the trail from here takes you through the enchanting Hinku Valley toward the Imja Valley via one of the highest Himalayan Passes, Amphu Laptsa Pass at 5780 meters which offers a wonderful trekking experience and stunning views of Everest, Lhotse, Island, and other significant peaks. 

Himalayan Trekkers have beautifully designed this crucial itinerary with proper rest days for unlocking the unrefined beauty of these mountainous regions and also provide you with practice sessions for your successful venture. 

Mera and Island Peak Climbing Highlights 

• Climb two splendid peaks of Nepal Himalayas - Island and Mera
• Embrace the thrilling trip to and from Lukla
• Explore Namche Bazaar of the Everest Region
• Splendid views of Mount Everest (8848 m), Lhotse (8,500 m), Makalu (8,478 m), Nuptse (7,880 m), Ama Dablam (6,812 m), Baruntse (7,129 m)
• Crossing the thrilling Amphu Lapcha Pass (5,780 m)
• Visit the holy lake at almost 5000 meters, Seto Pokhari
• Trekking through the stunning and secluded Hinku Valley
• Peek into the traditions, way of life, and hospitality of the well-known "Sherpa" people
• Experience the rhododendron, magnolia, birch, and pine forests' luxuriant greenery

How Difficult is Mera and Island Peak Climb?

Mera Peak is the tallest trekking peak in Nepal but does not require specialized mountaineering abilities. But, a climber must be physically fit and mentally prepared to handle challenging circumstances at a high altitude in order to make it to the top.

Island Peak, on the other hand, calls for previous knowledge of mountaineering. Gear such as mountaineering boots, crampons, abseiling, glacier hiking, crossing ladders, ice axes, and climbing fixed ropes are essential to make the summit of Island Peak. Island Peak Climbing is also a fantastic opportunity for ice and rock climbing.

As this journey is a combination of both climbs, climbers need to have knowledge regarding mountaineering skills along with a lot of effort and determination. In addition, the challenging Amphu Laptsa Pass at 5780 meters can also make the journey a little bit strenuous. 

Not only the distance and terrains but the weather conditions of the peaks also play a pivotal role in the difficulty. Though the mountain weather is ever-changing and unpredictable, learning about the right time to do the climb is very essential. 

Also, Altitude Mountain Sickness (AMS) can also be a threat during this Mera Peak and Island Peak Climbing journey as these journey takes you above 6000 meters altitude. But, we can take precautions beforehand by taking required acclimatization, hydrating, maintaining a balanced diet, getting enough sleep, etc. You can also carry Diamox or other prescribed AMS meditations. In case you notice any symptoms of this illness, you are requested to inform your guide as soon as possible as they are experienced with these subjects. 

What is the best time to do Mera and Island Peak Climb?

When attempting to climb a peak, climbers should be aware of the weather and conditions of the route and the peaks. When it is possible to the Mera and Island Peak Climbing any time of the year with proper preparations, spring and autumn are considered the shoulder seasons. 

Spring in Nepal starts in March and lasts till May and the trekking route offers breathtaking views of mountains, dense forests, vibrant meadows, and blooming rhododendrons during this season. The weather is warm and pleasant, with a clear view of the Himalayas and a beautiful blue sky but the nights could be cold and temperatures could get below the freezing point when you are above 4000 meters. 

Autumn is by far the most popular and best season for any climbing journey including Mera and Island Peak climbs because it is drier than other seasons, the weather is consistent, the sky is completely clear and the most breathtaking views are made possible. 

The summer monsoon is the least favorable time to climb because of the intense rainfall, thunderstorms, and fog. The trail also becomes slick and muddy and the views are also obscured by the daylong infiltration of fog and mist. In addition, avalanches and landslides can occasionally make the trip dangerous. But, with proper guidance, gear, an experienced guide, and climbers’ patience and endurance, the climb can be made possible. You can marvel at the beauty of the region's rivers, lakes, waterfalls, and streams during this time of the year. 

Winter is also not advised for Mera Peak and Island Peak Climbing and crossing Amphu Laptsa Pass because firstly, the wintertime temperature drops dramatically. Days grow shorter and it gets darker earlier. The ice and snow conditions and the temporary shutdown of the lodges and teahouses might increase the challenge. But again, if you want more thrill and challenges, you can attempt climbing this season too with proper preparation. 

Permits to do Mera and Island Peak Climb via Amphu Laptsa Pass

Climbers are required to obtain the following permits to climb Mera Peak and Island Peak

1. NMA (Nepal Mountaineering Association) Permit

2. Makalu Barun National Park Entry Permit

3. Sagarmatha National Park Entry Permit

4. Local Area Permit (Khumbu Rural Municipality Entrance permit)

All these permits are included in the package cost.