Kusum Kanguru Peak Climbing
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trip info
Duration
18 days
Max Altitude
6367m
Difficulty
Strenous
Starts from
Kathmandu
Trips Ends at
Kathmandu
Activity
Accommodation
Meals
Included
Weather
-2 °C
Group Size
Best Season
Spring & Autumn
Region
Everest Region Trekking Packages
Trekking Peak Experience a technically challenging climb on one of Nepal's most demanding trekking peaks.
Witness panoramic vistas of Himalayan giants, including Mount Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu.
Traverse varied terrains of rock, ice and snow, adding to the excitement.
Experience warm Sherpa hospitality in cozy family-run tea houses along the trail.
Visit lively Sherpa villages like Namche Bazaar and Khumjung.
Trek through rhododendron and pine forests dotted with high-altitude wildlife.
Establish multiple high camps on the route. It helps in getting acclimatized more before reaching high altitude.
Climbing the triple summit of a peak. Every summit has its own technicality.
Climb via the north ridge and southeast ridge; technically most challenging.
Exclusive climb, devoid of the regular trekking crowd.
Get the satisfaction of climbing a peak that has had few successful ascents.
Climbing Sherpas are provided to assure safety and success.
Contribute to local economies, supporting sustainable tourism in remote Himalayan regions.
Capture stunning photographs of unspoiled natural beauty and towering peaks.
Push your physical and mental limits in a challenging alpine environment.
Learn advanced mountaineering skills on the ground with real mountain terrain.
Create memories of a lifetime in one of the world’s most awe-inspiring mountain landscapes.
Climb Kusum Kanguru and take mountaineering to the next level.
Kusum Kanguru Peak Climbing Overview
Kusum Kanguru Peak, towering at an elevation of 6,367 meters (20,883 feet), is a prominent mountain situated in the Khumbu region of Nepal. In the Sherpa language, Kusum Kanguru means “Three Snow-White Gods,” referring to its triple summit.
It also acts as a division between Hinku Valley to the north and Dudh Khosi Valley to the southern part. So for trekkers and mountaineers traveling through this area, it becomes one of the important marked destinations.
It is known for its technically challenging features, which make it too difficult even for experienced climbers. Kusum Kanguru has three summits: East (6,360m), Main, and West (5,579m).
The summit of the North Face is notable since that part leads to complex rock climbing routes with great enticement. There are two major approaches from the Hinku Valley side: via the north ridge or southeast via the South ridge. Both these routes demand advanced-level alpine mountaineering skills.
First, you will take a flight from Kathmandu to Lukla, and then you will start trekking towards the Khumbu region, the beautiful landscapes of the Khumbu region. On the way, trekkers go through villages like Phakding and Monjo and take a chance to feel the culture and traditions of the Sherpa community.
The way to base camp takes you through dripping rhododendron and pine forests which boast some mesmerizing views of different flora and fauna. A stunning and picturesque location at the confluence of Dudh Khosi and Kusum Khola is typically used as the base camp and is the perfect place for acclimatization beneath the shadow of Chulu East.
From its peak, one can view some panoramic vistas that encompass some popular peaks of the Himalayas like Mount Everest (8,848m), Cho-Oyu (8,201m), Lhotse (8,516m), Makalu (8,463m), Nuptse (7,855m), Thamserku, Ama Dablam and Kwongde to name a few; further exhibiting how majestic is this entire Himalayan range.
New Zealand climber Bill Denz made the first successful ascent of the main summit of Kusum Kanguru on October 7, 1981. Denz climbed solo via the southwest buttress (west face). The Denz route was not only a first ascent but also represented both the first solo and the first traverse of the mountain. Five days later, on October 12, 1981, a Japanese team made the second ascent via the southeast face. Since that time, there have been many expeditions attempting different routes.
Difficulty level of Kusum Kanguru Peak
Kusum Kanguru is certified as Mountaineering VI, which means that it can be called one of the most difficult climbs in the world. Such an indication states the ruggedness and great requirements needed by climbers regarding their experience in technical climbing.
Routes can be very difficult, as they require the climber to be accustomed to handling various mixed conditions of ice and stone while subjected to weather changes that could be predicted.
Alpine climber experience is recommended for only this difficult peak. It must be a no-go for all climbers, and immature beginners, and recommended against rouges; completely dangerous ridges span the ascent. Preparation must consist of technical training and acclimatization.
Also situated in the Khumbu region of Nepal, it stands at a height of 6,367 meters and is known for its toughness. Due to its rather diverse formation of several rims and faces, the mountain has several rock and ice faces that are steep.
The ascent calls for basic mountaineering skills, such as the use of technical equipment such as crampons and ice axes. Confusingly, the peak is listed as a trekking peak while it has some of the tough conditions familiar in larger Himalayan peaks.
The history of Kusum Kanguru climbing reflects a challenging course of ascent. From 1978 through 1998, there were 22 attempted climbs, out of which only nine climbers had summited the mountain.
The first solo was climbed successfully by Bill Denz of New Zealand on 7 October 1981 to the southwest buttress. Further success has not been met, with many ascents not being able to reach the summit due to the highly technical nature and, again, unpredictable climate of the Siberian range.
But this is not good because the weather of the Himalayan makes climbing up Kusum Kanguru even more challenging. Climbers must anticipate the weather shifts with storms, and strong winds are likely to ruin the expedition completely.
Preparation for the Kusum Kanguru Peak
Physical Preparation:
A trip to climb Kusum Kanguru Peak (6,367 meters) requires considerable physical fitness. Those who are going to be prospective climbers should be able to hike 6-7 hours per day while carrying a 15 kg backpack. For this, enough fitness is needed; cardiovascular exercises, strength training, and activities related to endurance building are a must. For at least two to three months before the expedition, we recommend regular running or treadmill sessions, combined with hiking or stair climbing with a loaded backpack and uphill.
Technical training:
Known for its Technical challenges, Kusum Kanguru is famous for offering steep ice and rock sections, with these conditions mounting the demand for the best mountaineering skills.
Thus, using ice axes, crampons, jummars, ascenders, and descenders is a must for the climber. The training should be fairly rope-intensive and cover belaying, as well as vertical ice climbing techniques. Some expeditions even include a day of training at a high camp for most climbers who lack experience with these skills and information.
Acclimatization:
With proper acclimatization, danger can be reduced while climbing at higher altitudes. It should, of course, be planned in such a way as to gradually go up day by day, allowing some days in between for complete rest so that the body can become accustomed to a reduced level of oxygen in the environment. That would reduce the chances of altitude sickness, as well as improve performance while climbing.
Mental Preparation:
Kusum Kanguru is indeed going to test the hiker's mental composure. The mountaineers should brace themselves for unexpected weather, rough terrains, and the psychological stresses prompted by spending so much time at high altitudes.
Therefore, mental training as other techniques to enhance the development of visual imagery, stress management, and prior experience in these conditions could be beneficial.
Equipment Familiarization:
Climbers must be familiar to Personal or team climbing equipment. The climber must confirm that all equipment is in its best condition and also can be under various conditions. This also includes setting up a camp, taking it down, and knowing how to operate safe equipment.
Guided Expeditions:
It is recommended to join a guided expedition in case someone is completely new to high-altitude climbing or has no experience regarding it. While the guides have to be highly experienced, they must also give excellent training, support as well as their local knowledge, apart from all these, it can increase safety and success rate for the entire climbing team.
Route Research:
Further study of the minutest details in the chosen route will include the hazards and technical sections that better allow preparation. Knowledge of the terrain aids in making strategic plans and anticipating challenges for a safer ascent.
Weather Pattern Analysis:
Knowing the current regional weather conditions is helpful for planning the climb in the most favorable conditions. Monitoring the forecast but at the same time preparing for sudden changes in weather will help keep one safe on Kusum Kanguru.
Best Time For Kusum Kanguru Peak Climbing
Spring (March to May)
Spring (March to May) is the best time to climb Kusum Kanguru, where the weather during this season usually remains stable, with moderate temperatures and clear skies. The temperature at higher elevations can go up to -10°C~-15°C during the daytime and -20°C or lower at night.
Wind blows at a moderate speed reducing the wind chill’s effect. Sun rises around 5:30 AM and sets at around 6:30 PM, so there will be enough daytime for climbing the peak.
There isn’t much snow, and thus, avalanche-prone areas are less compared to other seasons. All these factors make the Spring season one of the most preferred times among climbers looking for the perfect balance between favorable weather conditions & bearable cold.
Autumn (September to November)
Autumn is also a favored season for climbing when the weather is stable, and everything around is crystal clear. The temperature in autumn is similar to that of spring, with maximum daytime temperatures ranging from -10°C to -15°C and nighttime temperatures possibly dropping as low as -20°C.
Wind conditions are generally good, being mild to calm, and very little (if any) snowfall occurs at this time. Sunrise is usually 6:00 AM, and sunset is around 5:30 PM. The post-monsoon dust-free atmosphere makes the surrounding peaks appear closer, truly a rewarding experience of being high in the Himalayas.
Summer (June to August)
Summer is the monsoon season in Nepal, which means lots of rain and high humidity. Also, at higher altitudes, this means a lot of snow, and thus difficult climbing conditions and risk of avalanches.
It's also only slightly warmer, with daily maximum temperatures ranging from -5°C to 10°C, but it could feel colder due to increased moisture. Expect plenty of clouds leading to reduced visibility, as well as very unpredictable weather. Wind speeds may vary.
Winter (December to February)
Winter is the time of year when the weather makes it most difficult to climb. It is extremely cold, with daytime high temperatures ranging from -15°C to -20°C and nighttime low temperatures often dropping well below -25°C.
Wind speeds at times can be extremely high, in excess of a severe gale, which adds a wind chill factor, making it even colder. Snowfall is common, especially at higher elevations where snow accumulates, resulting in increased avalanche danger.
Daylight hours are reduced, with the sun rising around 6:30 AM and sunset about 5:15 PM, thus providing fewer daylight hours for climbing.
Added to this seriously cold temperature, higher winds, and extra snowfall make the peaks very challenging to climb throughout winter and not something that I would recommend unless you are among some of the world’s best mountain climbers.
A Typical Day in Kusum Kanguru Peak Climbing
A Typical day in Kusum Kanguru Peak climbing consists of a disciplined schedule oriented towards acclimatization and gearing up for the climb. Climbers usually wake up early morning at around 6:00 AM and are served a hot breakfast to help keep them energized for the strenuous walk that lies ahead.
Post breakfast, all team members assemble to go through the itinerary for the day and are briefed on the route they will be walking that day. By approximately 7:00 AM, climbers kick-start their climb through rugged trails along with sudden weather fluctuations.
The initial part of the day includes a tremendous walk amidst panoramas of Rhododendron forests to stony trails offering pristine vistas of distant snowcapped mountains.
Climbers normally stop for a minute every hour to drink and rest. It’s part of the acclimatization process, especially at higher altitudes. By mid-morning (11:00 AM), you’ll have likely reached a fairly significant landmark or a stunning vantage point where you can have lunch and see the Himalayas, with Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu all in view.
Around noon, climbers reach their high camp/base camp for the day; they rest for a while and set up tents; it's lunchtime for most of us to have lunch together as we continue to get to know each other and bond.
In the early afternoon, there is usually some light training/technical skills. Teams are learning/practicing with climbing equipment and moving on icy terrain in preparation for summit night.
In the late afternoon or early evening, we have our dinner meetings in one dining tent, discussing the next day’s plan, preparing mentally and physically for the big push summit.
By 8:00 PM, climbers are usually tucked in their sleeping bags inside their tents, undertaking a conscious appreciation, analyzing the day's sections, and looking forward to tomorrow’s challenges.
Itinerary Detail
What is Included / Not Included
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Kusum Kanguru Peak Climbing Accommodation (3-Star Standard)
When you start your journey for Kusum Kanguru Peak climbing, you will be accommodated in a hotel or lodge in a city like Kathmandu for an overnight stay.
These accommodations generally are of a three-star category with clean and cozy rooms, attached bathrooms, and amenities like Wi-Fi and restaurant service.
If you wish to opt for a more budget accommodation, simple lodges can be availed or if you want to splurge on yourself, luxury hotels can be arranged at extra cost.
Further, as the trek proceeds into remote locations, the accommodation shall shift from hotels to tea houses, lodges, or tents. Tea houses and lodges are basic, and they serve hygienic and safe facilities with warm bedding, wherein one has to share a washroom facility.
For the climbing part, where villages are scarce, our team shall establish some strong and safe tents at already recognized camping stops, which shall again be hygienically provisioned with warmth inside and ample space to relax outside the tent. Whether it is about accommodating oneself at Base Camp or High Camps, these overnight stays are ensured keeping in mind your safety.
Single Supplementary Option
For those trekkers and climbers who would like to have their own private tent or room while on a trek and climb, we provide an option for you to book this single supplement accommodation.
Having your own personal tent or room provides an opportunity to be alone in solitude at the end of the day's journey. This is especially important for people who enjoy time for self-reflection or like that extra privacy.
Whether it is a private room in a tea house or your own separate tent while camping out, we can ensure that you will not be disturbed by others while resting and relaxing during your climbing journey.
The single supplementary option works well for guests who like to take time for self-reflection or simply enjoy a little extra space. Be it the privacy of a room in a tea house or your own tent while at camp, our staff will do their utmost to ensure that this choice is available to you.
In all cases, we would like to assure you that our accommodations, regardless of style, are chosen more so for their charm and comfort than any other criteria. Cleanliness and warmth can be expected from all of our accommodation choices, and lodging is inspected by our staff before your arrival.
Meals in Kusum Kanguru Peak Climbing
During the Kusum Kanguru Peak Climbing trip, meals are provided to fuel climbers for the strenuous adventure. In Kathmandu, breakfast is usually included with your accommodations.
From Lukla onward, you will be staying at tea houses or lodges where meals are served three times a day—breakfast in the morning, lunch around midday, and dinner and overnight rest in the evening.
The good news is that you’ll have an abundant supply of tasty local and international food items to choose from on most menus.
Some of the common dishes include Tibetan fried bread, soups, Momos (steamed dumplings), Daal Bhat (lentils and rice), Tarkari (steamed, fried or curried vegetables), potatoes prepared in every style imaginable (boiled, roasted, and fried), pasta noodles, etc.
For breakfasts, you can select eggs prepared in various ways, hot porridge, muesli with milk/curd/hot apple juice/hot water, toast with butter/honey/jam/peanut butter/cheese/curds/etc., French toast, corn flakes, aloo Parantha, bread rolls, plain Poori, papad and hot drinks like lemon tea, hot lemon, hot milk, Horlicks etc.
As you reach Kusum Kanguru Base Camp and ascend further, we will be camping in tents. A cook will be available during this phase of the climb to make you hot meals and provide you with nourishing and high-energy food on a daily basis. The menu is designed so that you get all the necessary nutrients required while climbing at higher altitudes.
Please let us know your specific dietary or culinary choices well in advance to help us plan better for you.
Exclusive Arrangements with Himalayan Trekkers for Kusum Kanguru Peak Climbing
To boost your overall experience, Himalayan Trekkers organize special Welcome or Farewell Dinners in Kathmandu. Take part in this great event to join us in the Nepalese cultural atmosphere and have a fine dinner accompanied by a range of traditional dances and presentations that introduce you to the marvelous ethnic diversity of Nepal.
While breakfast is included during your stay in Kathmandu, lunch and dinner expenses in the city are completely incurred by the climbers themselves. But all meals during our trekking and climbing periods are included in your climbing package cost.
Drinking Water:
Ensuring access to safe drinking water is very important while on the Kusum Kanguru Peak climb. You can buy bottled mineral water on your way to the base camp from the local lodges and shops there; however, to avoid environmental pollution, it’s better not to use single-use plastic bottles.
Instead, you should bring water purifying tablets or a portable water filter with you to treat the available water sources during the trek. Boiled and filtered water is easily available in lodges, but using other methods of purification also makes it safer.
Especially at higher altitudes above base camp, you will have scarce availability of proper sources of drinking water and will have to melt ice/snow. Make sure that such melted snows are properly boiled before drinking after adding tablets or filtering with portable filters.
You will need a sufficient amount of drinking water every day as staying properly hydrated helps in acclimatization as well as keeping your system working healthy overall while on your journey.
Mobile Reception and Internet Access:
Mobile Reception:
During the approach to Kusum Kanguru Peak, mobile reception can be expected in most of the populated areas like Lukla and Namche Bazaar. SIM cards with voice and data services from Nepal’s major telecom providers, Ncell or Nepal Telecom, can be availed in Kathmandu or major cities.
However, as you go higher in altitude and into more remote areas, the mobile signal becomes more unreliable before it finally disappears. It is best to let your family and friends know that you will be out of reach for the duration of this expedition.
Internet Access:
There is limited internet access on the Kusum Kanguru trail. Everest Link, an internet service provider founded in 2014, provides high-speed internet and Wi-Fi services in the Everest region, which covers some parts of the Kusum Kanguru trail. This is one of the highest internet service providers in Everest.
That being said, the internet isn’t guaranteed, and even if it is available, it’ll almost definitely be intermittent and slow, particularly as you reach higher elevations. Some lodges and tea houses will have Wi-Fi for purchase but again, it won’t be great quality.
Electric Plugs and Adapters:
One thing that you need to do before the Kusum Kanguru Peak climb is to learn about the electrical structure in Nepal. In general, Nepal uses a 230V supply voltage and 50Hz. Types C and D are the most common types of plugs used in Nepal.
Type C has two round pins, while type D has three round pins in a triangular fashion. If you are coming from different parts of the world that use different types of plugs, you need to have an adapter for yourself.
In the teahouses en route, there are usually electrical sockets available in common areas and not inside rooms. Teahouse owners charge a certain amount of money (Usually NPR 200 – NPR 300) per device to let you charge your electronics.
But since they are very limited and subject to power cut-offs, it is better if you carry your portable power banks or solar chargers if you want to keep your devices working while trekking.
Group Joining/Fixed Departure for the Kusum Kanguru Peak Climbing:
The journey of Kusum Kanguru Peak Climbing is an exciting venture that becomes more delightful and rewarding after being shared among co-climbers.
We have the provision of facilitating single individuals to join in already fixed departure dates as well-formed groups. It not only adds fun, excitement, and pleasure but also forms a safer group with more chances of success at the best possible reduced cost rates that you won’t get from any other operators.
The formation of the group depends on the number of interested participants booking for this trip. The sharing basis is beneficial to all individuals joining this trip together as strangers, but departing back home with a lifelong friendship bond created up there in altitude.
Fixed Departure Dates for Kusum Kanguru Expedition:
For those who are planning to undertake the journey on a fixed date, there are also fixed departure dates available for the Kusum Kanguru peak climb. These dates fall in the spring and autumn climbing seasons to make it to the top and back.
Along with that, these also provide a pre-planned schedule so that you can plan your trip well in advance.
However, you will have to check with your operator for availability, as places are complete on a first-come, first-served basis. When signing up for a fixed departure, you will not only benefit from a pre-arranged schedule but also get an opportunity to meet climbers from all over the world.
Private Trip Kusum Kanguru Peak Climbing:
Private Trip enables you to be free in managing your schedule for climbing Kusum Kanguru Peak. You pick the dates that work for you, select accommodations in the level that suits your style best, and choose to add more days to do more or less some if you like.
A private departure ensures that you will be with our guides and staff exclusively. This increased safety allows us to get closer to people and their culture, as well as the environment we are visiting.
Private trips are always costlier than group departures, but the advantages of customization, flexibility and exclusive services could make it worthwhile.
Packing List
To make it easy for you to prepare for your Kusum Kanguru Peak Climbing adventure, we have put together a comprehensive packing list. We do our best to provide you with the information that is most essential and of great value in making your peak-climbing a safe and successful journey with us.
Our packing list focuses on ensuring you don’t forget anything important and take only what is necessary for the trek. Please download the PDF version of the Packing List below.
Booking
After your Kanguru Peak Climbing trip is confirmed, we will send you the traveller's information form and proforma invoice. A 20% deposit of the total trip cost is required to book, to secure your booking. You can deposit via Wire transfer, online payment, PayPal payment, or total payment (upfront).
You can pay the remaining balance before your trip begins by wire transfer, credit or debit card, PayPal, cash, and online payment (whatever is most convenient to you).
Please know that online payments will take 1-2 working days before getting reflected in our account, while wire transfers will also take 3-5 working days for funds to arrive. As soon as we get the payment, we get back to you and send the final invoice.
Cancellation Policy
We understand that sometimes plans fall through, and you need to cancel. We’ve created the cancellation policy below to ensure your experience of cancelling is as simple and hassle-free as possible.
Six months before the trip: 20% of the total trip booking deposit will be forfeited.
Three months before the trip: 25% of the total trip booking deposit will be forfeited.
Two months before the trip: 50% of the total trip booking deposit will be kept. 1 month before the trip: 100% of the total trip booking deposit will be kept.
If, for any reason, you need to postpone your trip, your deposit is safe with us and can be used for a future booking at any time within 3 years. Please keep in mind, however, that the prices of the trip to which you transfer are subject to the open market and may not reflect those of your original booking.
In the unlikely event that we must cancel a trip for circumstances like weather or any other issue outside our control, we will refund 100% of your trip deposit no matter when the cancellation takes place. We strive to make things as easy and fair as possible. Please don’t hesitate to reach out if you’d like to talk through any questions on this.
FAQ
General
What gear do I need for the climb?
What gear do I need for the climb?
You will need climbing boots, crampons, harnesses, ice axes and cold weather-appropriate clothing. Usually, the trekking company provides you with a detailed gear list.
Do I need to hire a guide for the climb?
Do I need to hire a guide for the climb?
Yes, it is highly advisable to use the services of an experienced guide for both safety and route finding. The guides are familiar with the region and can also help you when you face technical climbing sections.
What is the itinerary for the climb?
What is the itinerary for the climb?
Our itineraries are designed to allow for proper acclimatization and success with a gradual ascent of the mountain and to minimize exposure to bad weather.
How do I reach the starting point of the trek?
How do I reach the starting point of the trek?
Most probably, you have to take a flight to Lukla (a small airport in Khumbu). Then, from there, you will have to trek for a few days till you reach the base camp.
How many climbers are usually in a group?
How many climbers are usually in a group?
There can be between 4 to 12 climbers in a group, depending on the expedition company. Smaller groups can mean a more personalized experience.
What permits are required for climbing Kusum Kanguru?
What permits are required for climbing Kusum Kanguru?
Climbers need to have a climbing permit from the Nepalese government and also need to have a TIMS (Trekkers’ Information Management System) card. Normally, a trekking company will arrange these permits.
What’s the ratio to reach the summit of Kusum Kanguru?
What’s the ratio to reach the summit of Kusum Kanguru?
The ratio keeps on changing but it is lesser than other peaks because of technicality. Preparation and acclimatization help in better chances of a successful summit.
Are there age limits for climbers?
Are there age limits for climbers?
Most companies prefer climbers to be at least 16 years old. Please contact us for information about age limitations on a trip you are interested in.
What if something goes wrong?
What if something goes wrong?
We have safety protocols in place for emergencies. Our guides are trained in emergency management, and the safety of our climbers is our top priority.
Can you rent climbing gear in Nepal?
Can you rent climbing gear in Nepal?
A lot of shops in Kathmandu rent gear to climbers. However, make sure to try the equipment before your climb.
