Mount Pumori is a beautiful 7000+ m pyramid-shaped peak spreading in Nepal and Tibet and has a height of 23495 feet. It dominates the skyline behind Kala Pathar (19000 ft) and is very easy to identify because of its unique shape. ”Pumori” means “Unmarried Daughter” in the language of Sherpas.
This peak is also very famous as the training peak before climbing Everest and is graded as technically level four in difficulty (Very Strenuous). A group size of a maximum of 10-12 members is considered ideal for the expedition.
Pumori Expedition starts after a flight to Lukla. After a fairly difficult trek of 7-8 days, we reach the base camp of Pumori. Around day 13-29 we do the expedition after proper acclimatization and proper training around the base camp. About 20 expedition groups scale the summit of this peak every year.
Mr. Gerhard Lenser was the first person to reach the summit in 1962 as a part of a German/Swiss team. Pumori expedition is a lifetime experience as the summit offers a mesmerizing view of the surrounding peaks in the Everest region.
We will follow the standard route on the South East Ridge, a grade 3, snow and ice climb that requires a good understanding of alpine climbing techniques and familiarity with the effects of high altitude. Three camps are set up above the base camp at 5300m. Climb through the glaciers for approx. 4 hours and reach Camp 1 at 5700m.
From Camp 1, we climb the face with 40-60 degrees slope and pass through a snow wall to reach camp 2 at 6200m. From camp 2, climb through ice walls and crevasses to reach Camp 3 at 6480m. Passing through crevasses, climb up to Pumori cliff and then to the summit.
Day 01: Arrival Kathmandu in the hotel.
Day 02-03: KTM S/S and expedition preparation
Day 04: Fly to Lukla trek to Phakding (2640m)
Day 05: Trek to Namche (3440m)
Day 06: Rest day at Namche for acclimatization
Day 07: Trek to Tengboche (3867 m)
Day 08: Rest day at Tengboche for acclimatization
Day 09: Trek to Dingboche
Day 10: Trek to Lobuche (4930 m)
Day 11: Rest day at Lobuche for acclimatization
Day 12: Arrive at Base Camp
Day 13-29: Climbing period
Day 30: Trek back to Pangboche
Day 31: Trek to Namche
Day 32: Trek back to Lukla
Day 33: Fly Lukla/Kathmandu and transfer to hotel
Day 34: Free day in Kathmandu
Day 35: Departure from KTM.