Makalu Expedtion
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trip info
Duration
62 days
Max Altitude
8445m
Difficulty
Very Strenous
Starts from
Kathmandu
Trips Ends at
Kathmandu
Activity
Accommodation
Meals
Included
Weather
-20 °C
Group Size
Best Season
Spring & Autumn
Region
Makalu & Barun Valley Treks
Climb the world's fifth-highest mountain at a staggering 8,485 meters, renowned for its unmistakable pyramid shape and knife-edge ridges.
Tackle some of the world's most challenging climbing terrain that is guaranteed to keep experienced climbers wanting more from an extreme expedition.
Experience breathtaking views of some of the neighbouring peaks like Everest, Lhotse, Kanchenjunga, and Cho Oyu.
Trek through some really rugged terrains, deep valleys, high passes, and dense forests with almost no other people around.
Explore a region that is renowned for its exceptional natural beauty and incredible diversity of flora and fauna.
Take a camping hike through a region of Nepal that is both remote and off the beaten track with few other trekkers.
Makalu Expedtion Overview
The Makalu Expedition’s objective is to summit the world’s 5th tallest mountain, Makalu, which has an altitude of 8,485 meters (27,838 feet). The summit is located in Nepal’s Mahalangur Himalayas Region, which is situated on the eastern end of the Nepal Himalayas.
This expedition allows the mountaineers to be part of a location that is part of the Makalu-Barun National Park, which is known for its untouched environment and rich variety of flora and fauna as well as breathtaking views; this region is surely one to grab climbers’ attention as it is framed by Makalu’s pyramidal shape as well as Everest view, Lhotse and Baruntse making it a perfect place for mountaineers.
The Makalu expedition is not just a test of strength but also one of the few untouched locations on Earth. ‘Alpine’ refers to the foliage that may be found in the mountains.
Hence, the climbers would be able to traverse through sub-tropical trees, alpine meadows, and glacial valleys that are diverse ecosystems. Exposure to the uninhabited areas, along with the fact that this is a less-conquered path, brings both thrill and peace for climbers looking for calmness.
Though it is quite evident that the peak has dazzlingly rugged pinnacles, the gentle slopes of the foothills coupled with stunning visual spectacles like crystal clear skies, splendid weather, dazzling sun rays, rich flora, and friendly wildlife also seem quite equally inviting.
Unbelievably harsh temperatures do, however, make it painfully obvious that this is not a journey for a casual mountain climber.
In the tropical foothills, the weather can often be quite unpredictable, which also provides a bone-chilling harshness. Still, the generous flora and various forms of wildlife do compensate for that.
No doubt, extreme endurance and acclimatization are important when attempting Makalu. However, conquering the steep ceilings of how professionally and masterfully Makalu is constructed is what is truly crucial.
Makalu has made its name as quite an interesting endeavor for climbers all across the globe; the Barun Valley, along with the exquisite views from the peak, is breathtakingly serene and offers a one-in-a-million experience that will forever be engraved in memory, making it a beautiful story to tell for years on.
Difficulty in the Makalu Expedition
Climbing the world’s fifth-highest peak, Mount Makalu at 8,485 meters, is a trip through steep mountain terrain with little shoulder room where only the most fit, technically proficient, and mentally strong are rewarded. Sustained rock and ice climbing challenges are generally of an Alpine 'D' rating (Difficult) grade.
Daily trek and climbing lengths vary throughout the journey, but the expedition usually lasts 50 days. Climbers will trek for roughly 6 to 7 hours per day during the approach to Makalu Base Camp (4,800 meters) due to the undulating terrain, which minimizes the risk of severe altitude sickness and increases endurance.
On an ascent, you have to build a series of higher camps from Base Camp. The Makalu ascent from Base Camp at 4,800 meters ascends a series of higher camps with their special challenges.
Camp 1, located at 6,100 meters, takes about 4 to 5 hours. In this segment, the navigation is through glacial moraines across crevassed areas, requiring route finding and glacier travel techniques. Climbers make a 3 to 4-hour ascent to Camp 2 (6,600 meters) from Camp 1.
The ascent becomes steeper, and there are snow and ice slopes to make an ascent safe and stable, requiring fixed ropes. The trip is 4 to 5 hours to Camp 3, which is 7,400 meters.
Technical climbing of steep ice and mixed rock terrain, requiring advanced skills, is included in this section. After this, another 4 to 5 hours of ascent is needed to reach Camp 4 at 7,800 meters, then the summit. Steep and exposed, the final major obstacle in the French Couloir was part of this stage.
The climb from Camp 4 to the summit is the most technical and gruelling part of the climb. It usually begins at night and lasts typically 10 to 12 hours. Climbers are confronted with steep ice, knife-edged ridges, and the summit pyramid. All of this is at extreme altitudes in the so-called death zone, where oxygen is very limited. It can take up to an additional 4 to 6 hours to descend back down to Camp 4.
Technical climbing skills required for Makalu are as follows:
Ice Climbing: You should be comfortable climbing moderate, 45° snow/ice slopes with two ice tools and crampons. Be ready to climb the low-5th-class rock as well.
Fixed Rope Ascent: The majority of climbers use ascenders (jumars) and a fixed rope on the steeper parts of the route for added safety and increased speed.
Crevasse Navigation: We must be able to navigate safely over steep, crevassed glaciers using ladders and ropes on the approach and lower camps.
Rock Scrambling: Some easy rock scrambling with boots on, especially near the summit. Balance and careful footwork are essential.
The Makalu Expedition is recommended only to those who have already held an 8,000-meter peak climbing experience and are proficient in mountaineering skills.
Due to its sheer isolation in Rolwaling Valley, unpredictable weather conditions, and challenging route demand the climbers to self-support from the start of the approach trek through the end of the climb summit day.
Prior preparation in terms of physical, mental as well and technical aspects is not just required.
Preparation for the Makalu Expedition
Preparing for a Makalu Expedition involves lots of physical training and technical as well as mental preparations.
Climbers need to work out cardio exercises, strength activities, and endurance-building exercises, which help them sustain for a long duration of time at higher altitudes.
As climbing beyond base camp is totally dependent upon your stamina, strengthening becomes very vital. A good period of acclimatization helps the body to perform much better.
Hence, climbers should plan slow, weighted ascents and keep rest days in hand so that the body can adapt to the low oxygen content prevailing at higher altitudes.
On the Technical front, one needs to acquire mountaineering skills, especially ice climbing, which might not be used at anchor peaks but proves its worth when you traverse over glaciated snowfields during your trek to Base Camp or while negotiating crevasse routes, Base Camp to Advanced Base Camp etc.
Mental preparation is just as important since climbers must be prepared for obstacles such as bad weather and mentally challenging decision-making situations. Previous high-altitude experience in Himalayan climbing is crucial to acclimate to the altitude and understand the complex logistics and safety issues associated with such a difficult climb. Being able to work well and communicate well with all members of the team will help to increase the Expedition's success and to help protect everyone on the Expedition.
Best Time for the Makalu Expedition
The best time for a Makalu Expedition is in the spring and autumn seasons when weather conditions are most favorable – and temperatures are manageable, to make your chance of a successful and safe ascent as high as possible.
Spring Season (March to May):
One of the best seasons considered for the Makalu Expedition is Spring and autumn. Generally, the weather is clear in this season, especially at Makalu Base Camp (4,800 meters), the temperature during the day ranges from 0°C to 10°C. But in higher elevations, like at Camp III seems -10°C to -20°C. Night & early morning will be a bit colder than day, and nighttime temperatures fall to -10°C to -20 °C. The snow starts melting, so it will be suitable for climbing through the ascending route, especially when you reach higher elevations, still wouldn’t require much effort while walking up.
Autumn Season (September to November):
Autumn is also considered a favorable season for the Makalu Expedition. The weather remains generally stable this season, with a clear blue sky and less chance of precipitation.
As it is already autumn after a long monsoon, the environments start to cool down, but still, it will be an enjoyable moment during and before the summit, which gives you the comfort of climbing any route.
From up in the parent peaks of Makalu, you are amazed by Gokyo Lake’s rambling exploration of the Everest Himalayas and a wonderful look at a great panorama full of magnificent mountain views with the top five 8,000-meter peaks, including Mt. Everest, Lhotse, Choyo, and many other smaller peaks.
Summer/Monsoon Season (June to August):
The summer months also signify the beginning of the monsoon season in Nepal. This means heavy rainfall, more humidity, and higher chances of avalanches and landslides. The trails become slippery, and the mountains are mostly covered with clouds. It's not very encouraging for climbing.
Winter Season (December to February):
Winter is the coldest season in the Makalu region when the weather becomes extreme. The temperature in this season drops drastically and can fall below the freezing point at high elevations. It snows heavily on the mountain, and the climbing routes are covered with thick snow.
Due to heavy snowfall, most of the time, climbers have to dig out a path into deep snow during their ascent, which is not an easy task. The strong, chilly winds accompanied by freezing cold temperatures make it difficult for climbers to even move forward, and thus, mountaineering becomes very tough as well as life-threatening.
A Typical Day on the Makalu Expedition
A normal day on the Makalu Expedition starts at 6:00 AM or 6:30 AM. The guides give a soft knock on your door as a wake-up call. By 6:45 AM, you come to the mess tent or teahouse dining area for tea or coffee, which also helps you warm up.
You have breakfast at 7:00 AM – porridge, eggs, and fresh fruit are often served – enough to get you started for the day. We need to have our gear packed by 8:00 before we set off trekking, so there is time provided then if you haven't had something or need to finalize packing items in your duffle bag.
We usually start trekking as a group by around 8:30 AM every day. Your destination today could be through dense jungle-like forest or scree and rock landscapes, but each day, we will reach within sight some beautiful sections of the Makalu Mountain range.
Trekkers tend to stop around lunchtime, usually at a gorgeous outdoor location. Lunch is generally a light meal of nutritious foods that are easy to eat on the go, such as Dal Bhat, etc. Lunch provides an opportunity to rest and refuel before continuing the day’s trek at 1:00 PM.
The afternoon hike lasts 3-5 hours, depending on the day’s destination or activity. Also there are several photo opportunities on this part of the trail, so make sure your camera is in an easy reach. We usually reach our campsite or Teahouse (depending on the definition) by 5:00 PM and spend our free time relaxing until dinner, usually at 7:00 - 8:00 PM.
Dinner begins with warm soup, and a hot meal consists of rice, pasta, or potatoes and meat (or veg hearty alternative), lentils, and veggies. In the evening, we'll be relaxing in our dining tent with the people we’ve just trekked with, where they’ll recount all manner of tales of past treks while we sit around our mug up (snack) and the occasional hot drink. After dinner, tuck into bed.
Itinerary Detail
What is Included / Not Included
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Accommodation (3-star standard)
During the Makalu Expedition the accommodations for climbers are planned to ensure climber's comfort and safety. In Kathmandu, there will be accommodation provided in the standard hotel, where you have modern facilities. There are additional costs for Alternative Single rooms.
As you trek along the trek, accommodations range from a teahouse to a lodge. Small guesthouses, or teahouses, exist in the village, with rooms in basic but reasonable rooms for families in the area.
Better facilities are provided at lodges, which are larger establishments. Rooms are small and simple, common, often shared with other trekkers, and both options are common along the trek.
When the accommodation gets to Makalu Base Camp, they move to camp in tents as soon as they arrive. Different tents are set up at the base camp for all the climbers. Each climber gets privacy and enough space to carry out gear.
Major facilities of the base camp include a well-equipped cooking tent, dining, and sanitation. Sharing our tents amongst the team members is done as you camp your way to higher camps to make use of the space available.
These tents stand up to the harsh Himalayan temperatures today, featuring as they do the ability to give you warmth and shelter in the hardest of conditions.
Single Supplementary
For those wishing to have even more privacy during their expedition, we have this single supplement service option. This will ensure you have single accommodations in hotels and, where feasible, in tea houses along the trekking route. In Kathmandu, you can request single rooms for an additional fee.
At the base camp itself, upon request, tents will be provided on a single occupancy basis, but depending on the availability of camping space, there may be a night or two where tents will have to be shared.
At higher elevations and advanced camps such as Camps 1, 2, and 3 on Makalu, shared tents are the norm because of space limitations and because it is simply not feasible/practical to use individual tents.
Taking the single supplement option is based on personal comfort and privacy during the expedition. It is recommended to request this option while registering for the trip so that we can confirm availability and let you know about the additional cost of single accommodation.
Meals during the Makalu Expedition
Meals in Kathmandu:
In the capital, climbers stay at standard hotels that have restaurants offering a choice of dishes for breakfast. These include toast, eggs (boiled, scrambled, or fried), pancakes, porridge, and muesli; fruit will also be provided. Drinks available are tea, coffee, and fruit juice.
Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu can be had at any one of the many excellent restaurants that serve Nepalese foods such as Dal Bhat (lentil soup with rice) and Tibetan fare, dumplings called momos; other continental items like pasta and pizza are provided.
Meals during Teahouse Stays:
While trekking on the Makalu Expedition, teahouses (basic lodges) provide all meals. The teahouse menus generally consist of typical Nepali dishes such as dal bhat (rice with lentil soup, vegetable curry, and pickles), noodle soups, fried noodles, and momos (vegetable or meat-filled dumplings), along with a few other easy-to-prepare items like pasta and potato dishes all spiced with local spices.
For breakfast, teahouses will provide you with pancakes, porridge, toast or Tibetan bread, omelet and local bread. Tea, coffee and hot chocolate are also available. On all tea house treks, dinner and breakfast are included in the accommodation price. Lunch we take on the way to our destination.
Meals during Tented Accommodations:
Beyond the teahouses and especially at higher altitudes and base camps, we will be accommodated in the tented camp. Meals are prepared for us by our cooks, who accompany us on the expedition. On these occasions, we do not go into teahouses, so unlike trekking, there is no menu to choose from.
Breakfast will normally consist of porridge, muesli (or cornflakes), pancakes (or toast or eggs), and bread with spreads.
Lunch and Dinner: Soups (tomato or vegetable), rice, pasta, noodle soups, and some canned meats or fish.
Keeping hydrated is important, as well as keeping warm. Hot drinks like tea, coffee, and hot chocolate are mostly prepared. Boiling water may not always be possible, so it is good to carry personal water purification means.
Special Arrangements With Himalayan Trekkers:
In addition to meals, as part of our hospitality, we organize Welcome or Farewell Dinners in Kathmandu that would give you a taste of Nepali culture and cuisine. The idea behind these events is to make your meetup experience as a whole better and to serve as a warm introduction and exit from your journey.
Breakfast is included in Kathmandu, as lunch and dinner are at your expense. All meals during the actual trek and climb are covered, but it is best to have some personal snacks there for extra energy. For dietary preferences, when possible, we try to accommodate; however, in remote places, options can be limited.
Drinking Water Facility in the Makalu
In the lower areas of the Makalu region, natural Himalayan spring water, bottled mineral water and boiled and filtered spring water are available. You will find that people only drink boiled filtered spring water at local tea houses when you go higher to begin trekking, but. The region has a lot of natural spring water available from taps, rivers and streams.
Trekkers need to either buy boiled and filtered spring water from the locals or fill up the spring water themselves and use chlorine drops, UV light electronic devices or a filter hand pump to make it drinking water safe (to be brought along).
We advise trekkers to bring their reusable water bottles (avoid plastic) for the sake of the environment. You can purify water by yourself or take some help from the Himalayan Trekkers team. There’s also an option to buy purified water from the locals, which helps them economically and is environmentally friendly too.
During the camping trek, you get drinking water only from natural Himalayan springs. The camping crew/guide will prepare safe drinking water after boiling and filtering it: spring waters, tap water, river/streams/ice-melted, depending on the situation.
Your safety and health is our priority. Be sure that the water we use, either from natural resources after boiling or from the melting ice, will be thoroughly boiled again and filtered in order to drink without risk. It will not be a problem to manage drinking water during your Makalu expedition as long as you take care of it seriously.
Mobile Reception and Internet Access
During the Makalu Expedition, internet, phone and other forms of communication are extremely limited, especially at higher altitudes. In general, mobile reception is low to non-existent in higher altitudes as well.
Nepal's two primary telecom operators, Nepal Telecom (NTC) and Ncell, provide mobile coverage in cities as well as some of the main trekking areas. Still, they are unlikely to reach this isolated region where we will be solely relying on them for communication.
So most teams use Satellite Phones these days, which gives access to communication from anywhere around big mountains for logistic coordination or emergencies, as well as VHF handhelds between members & camps.
Internet is easily accessible, but not as much in this trek. There are a few guesthouses at some of the lower altitude villages where you may find a Wi-Fi facility with some charges, but it is not reliable and slow.
As we move higher up, there will be no such options, and it would be better to inform your family members about the same before beginning the trek so that they can contact you through a guide if required during emergencies. Another option would be to carry a local SIM card.
Electric Plugs and Adapters
One of the most important things you need to know before going on the Makalu Expedition is how Nepal’s electrical system works so that your gadgets can keep up with you. Nepal has an electricity supply of 220–240 volts AC at 50 Hz frequency.
The country uses various types of plugs, mostly Type C (two round pins), Type D (three round pins in a triangular pattern), and Type M (same as D but with larger pins).
Given this variety, we highly recommend you bring a universal travel adapter. A universal travel adapter can accept any plug type, so you will never need to bring different adapters for destinations with different socket types. Also, please make sure your electronic devices can support 220- 240V incoming voltage.
Most modern electronic gadgets such as laptops and Smartphones usually work under dual voltage design (i.e., 100-240V); if that is not the case and your device is only supporting lower incoming voltage (i.e., 100-120V), you will need to bring a “voltage converter” in order not to damage your device while charging from high-voltage electricity source.
Furthermore, it is recommended to have one power bank or portable charger with you. During our expedition, electricity access, especially in remote areas, might be limited or unavailable on some days.
Having a fully charged power bank means that indirectly chargeable gear would still be able to work seamlessly during days without direct charging availability.
